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Ken Lyon's "The Cape Cod Room," at The Bath Club, Miami Beach, Florida

'A New England Style Dining Salon'

New England Style? In Miami? A salon? You bet! But, to pull that off, you would have to really bring it, with a unique twist, perfectly fresh quality ingredients, and competant service. I can tell you, after my 11 course extravaganza, owner Ken Lyon and Executive Chef Jorge Cardenas delivered. Though we have always espoused the philosophy that 'You can't eat the decor," the fact that this eatery is located in the historic Bath Club, doesn't hurt. The Bath Club has been around since 1926, a roaring twenties icon and sometime location for the society's elite for many years in Miami. Its eclectic and unique architecture inspired restauranteur Ken Lyon, owner of the Fashion District's enoteca, Fratelli Lyon, and the chic catering company, Lyon + Lyon, to think Americana. And according to Lyon, being at the beach, seafood was "a no brainer, so combining the two was a natural choice, what could be more Americana than New England seafood?"

I admit I was skeptical, after all, how could you improve on Clam Chowda', Steamed Lobsta', or Fish Stew, and make it fine dining? And will it work this sub-tropical climate? As Ken explained, "I wanted to keep the restaurant itself casual and comfortable, yet give Maimi residents and visitors, a unique fine dining take on the New England seafood fare that I was raised on. A type of retro cuisine brought up to today's culinary standards. Bringing in Jorge (whose kitchen acumen was honed in such eateries as NYC'S Cafe Boulud and The Russian Tea Room) gave us the chef that could help take what is traditionally casual fish shack fare and raise it to a level of fine dining that the Miami culinary crowd would appreciate.There is definitely a northeastern seaboard connection, here from NY, Connecticut, to Massachusettes, so people here are comfortable with the cuisine." For those of you familiar with his district eatery, Fratelli Lyon, and his catering company, don't expect a space driven by the decor. Ken says this is about the food, remarking, "This is more a grown-up menu, and we wanted a grown-up dining room." He prefers to refer the seating area as the 'dining salon.' You can read our interview with Ken in this month's Chef to Chef.

The restaurant ambiance is minimal, with a Cape Cod-like elegance that those who have spent any time on the Cape will immediately embrace and it gives one the feel of a seafood house dining room, albeit, notched up to fine dining standards. Traditionalists will enjoy a new take on familiar classics, like the deconstructed Quahog Chowder, the velvety smooth soup poured tableside over sauteed clams, herbs, potatoes and served in a clam shell. Innovative presentation, representing Chef Jorge's high-end NYC culinary background aside, it's all about the taste and the moment the soup hits your lips, you could almost envision the craggy rocks of the New England shoreline. A pleasingly modern offering that held on to the comfort food quality of the traditional clam chowder we've all come to love.

In contrast to the decor, but very Miami Beach, is the atmosphere. Subdued, intimate (the restaurant only has 55 seats), gallery lighting and low light candles on the tables, along with the choice of cool to mainstream jazz music, makes sure you don't forget that Miami's famed South Beach nightlife awaits just down the street.

Lyon & Cardenas are very particular about using the freshest of ingredients, staying true to the Cape Cod heritage and Lyon's adherence to excellence in all phases of the restaurant. Smaller than his 'district' restaurant, he explained that he and Jorge adapted to the more intimate setting, which allows them to pay more particular attention to each patron. From the Nantucket Bay Scallops, to the Island Creek Oysters, all shipped in daily and 'just caught' fresh, for the true seafood lover. The Cape Cod Room is sure to please both the traditional, as well as the more adventuresome palate.